
by Lou Ann Weeks
Before you start cutting tiles or get so excited about doing a mosaic, I have found it is very important to consider several factors first. In doing so, you will save yourself hours of aggravation and regret!
Is the piece intended for interior or exterior
Is there any moisture that will be in contact with the piece
What kind of lighting will the mosaic be exposed to, is there a glare
Is the mosaic a fine art piece or a decorative piece
How will I frame it or finish off the edges
Answering these questions before you begin, helps you determine which adhesives, tiles, tools, etc., that you will need for a beautiful piece of artwork that you will enjoy for many years!
By Lou Ann Weeks
Grout comes in all kinds of colors. However, there are three basic colors: white, grey and black. Before you choose a color of grout, look at the overall tone of your mosaic. White grout will unify light colors, gray unifies the mid-tone colors, and the black will bring together the darker tones. If you cannot decide, do a test on a few tiles. Choosing a natural gray is always a safe bet.
The below grout examples come from Sonya King’s book “Mosaic Techniques & Traditions” which I highly recommend. Use this sample to guide you – happy grouting!

by Lou Ann Weeks
You will be amazed at how many different bases there are that can be used for your mosaics. I’ve been known to say, “if it stays still long enough, I can mosaic it!”
The type of base you use is dependent upon where your mosaic will be displayed. If you decide to mosaic on wood, make sure you will be keeping your finished piece out of any moisture. No matter what, you will need to seal wood as well as any surface that absorbs moisture, with 1/2 weld bond and 1/2 water. Just brush this mixture over the entire board and let dry before you begin to mosaic. Terra cotta pots, saucers and concrete stepping stones are great backers. Cement-based surfaces are ideal, although heavy. Glass is nice, too, and silicon works well for adhering your tile to glass. Do not use any material for a base that is flexible, as your tiles will pop off easily.
by Lou Ann Weeks
So many mosaic artists are intimidated by large installations. Yet they are so much fun to do and are wonderful beyond words!!
The trick is to know about the substrates and surfaces you are going to be working on. Is it going on an exterior or interior wall? What is the wall made out of? What mosaic materials do I want to use? What adhesives work with all these variables?
Don’t worry, here is a very simplified rule of thumb: if it goes outside in the weather, use substrates that won’t rot AND use (I recommend) thinset for your adhesive; if it goes inside (no moisture can get to it) than you can use substrates such as wood AND you can get away with (again, I recommend) Weldbond as your adhesive.
Large mosaics are generally created using a pattern, so I always use fiberglass mesh for my substrate. Mesh gives you a lot of latitude as you can install it inside or outside.
Here are some photos of large installations I have done. Send me photo’s of yours and any comments or questions!


By Lou Ann Weeks
Here are some helpful & fun Mosaic tips & tricks:
Let me know what tips and tricks you’ve used and enjoy!
by Lou Ann Weeks
As a mosaic artist, this is a question I get asked a lot. When I am teaching my mosaic classes, I recommend one basic tool for cutting vitreous tiles. Leponitt Nippers are my favorite tool for cutting mosaic glass tiles. It is a cutting tool that has wheel blades and easily cuts glass tiles. Don't worry if you get a rough, ragged cut. A ragged edge can be a desired effect of hand cut tile, as it gives the work a more authentic look. If you must straighten the edge, slowly nip the rough area off.
Leponitt's can be ordered on-line from mosaic suppliers; but make sure you get this brand name. There are others out there that look similar, but don't work nearly as well.
The wheels on these nippers last a long time. If they start getting dull just rotate them slightly. If the whole wheel is dull, it's time to replace the wheels.
Practice cutting your mosaic tiles into different shapes i.e. triangles, rectangles, circles. Remember to be safe; safety goggles are a good idea because glass shards tend to shoot out when you are nipping glass.
Let me know if you have any preferences or tips on the tools you use for your mosaics!
by Lou Ann Weeks
Do you feel confused by all the different adhesives available for mosaics? How do you know which one to use and when?
When I first started mosaics, it seemed so intimidating. However, after taking a few workshops, it started to make sense -- so I will try to make it really easy. Two big questions you need to answer at the beginning of your project:
The two adhesives I use the most are Weldbond and Thinset (mortar). Occasionally, I will use Silicone as it is very useful for gluing glass to glass.
Weldbond is a white glue that dries clear and can be used on mosaic projects that will not be introduced to moisture. An inside wall hanging is ideal for using Weldbond. It is easy to use – just put a little on the backs of your tiles and stick them down. Weldbond can be ordered online at various mosaic websites.


Thinset (or mortar) is the perfect choice for any project that will either be outside in the elements or that will possibly have some contact with moisture such as showers and backsplashes. You can buy it in either gray or white, so consider this when picking your grout color. It’s better to have gray thinset with a colored grout then the white thinset. Use white thinset with white grout. Thinset comes in powder form and you will have to mix it with water to a “peanut butter” consistency. Thinset can be purchased at any local home improvement store.
Hope this has cleared up any confusion you may have had. Let me know if you have found other adhesives you've either enjoyed or hated using while creating your mosaics! I look forward to your comments.